 
Luino.
On
entering the town we should first visit the Church of San Pietro,
found outside the historical centre: its Romanesque bell tower is
one of the finest in the northern part of the Varese region. It is
also the first of a series of bell towers sharing the characteristic
stylistic Romanesque traits of the Valtravaglia (the large valley
between Lake Maggiore and the Lake of Lugano) which we shall come
across on this itinerary along Lake Maggiore. This church, rebuilt
during the XVII century in Baroque style, conserves a number of frescoes
in the right aisle which are datable to the XIV-XV centuries.
A stroll along the lakeside is a must although one should not forget
to visit the town's historical centre. In doing this it is possible
to mentally retrace the descriptions made of the town by Piero
Chiara and Vittorio
Sereni, two exceptional writers from Luino.
Here we propose a passage from Piatto
piange by Chiara and two poems from Frontiera
[Frontier] by Sereni which besides being masterful pieces in their
own right seem to us to portray three aspects of Luino with considerable
efficacy, a place both real although at the same time metaphysical.
Historically
speaking Luino can probably claim protohistoric origins and it was
also frequented during Imperial Roman times.
Relegated to playing a secondary role during the Middle Ages, 'hemmed
in' as it was between Maccagno and the Valtravaglia,
the town became more important in the zone when in 1541 Charles V
awarded the town of Luino the right to hold a market. In this respect
Luino alternated its own market with that held in Maccagno on a weekly
basis: the latter, bestowed with greater privileges, had up until
this time enjoyed the exclusive market right on this shore of Lake
Maggiore. Notwithstanding alternating vicissitudes with the competition
represented by Laveno (which aspired to obtain the same prerogative),
this concession was definitively confirmed in 1786. From this date
onwards the market has been held in Luino every Wednesday.
|